Today I received an announcement for the re-opening of a restaurant here in L.A. I was kind of excited to try it, but then I got to the part where they list the menu items designed to entice you… Fois Gras Terrine with Prosciutto, Black Fig Purée, Orange Gelée and Campari Gastrique. REALLY?!? The first thing that came to my mind was that’s a lot of flavors I don’t want to experience together and I’m betting it could use an actual acid component to counter the melt-in-your-mouth, velvety, buttery deliciousness that is fois gras. But I haven’t tasted the dish and it’s beside the point. I read on and just about every dish on the menu included more gelées, glacées, purées, gastriques, and foams. UGH! BTW – this restaurant is a gastro-pub; not a fine dining restaurant. Remember the the first couple seasons of Top Chef when every dish had a a damn foam on it? Chances are 95% of the viewers had probably never had a foam on anything, except for a latte, and initially they were intriguing. But didn’t you get tired of them? Just a little aside: a foam is now being called “air”. WTF?!? Understandably, chef contestants are trying to impress the judges with their “cutting-edge” technique. However, it now seems that every young chef and new restaurant feels the need to impress the FOODIOTS out there with ridiculous menu descriptions. Don’t muck up my plate with unnecessary lumps of jelly and brush strokes of syrupy reductions just to prove you can.
I guess if you can’t dazzle your customers with culinary brilliance, baffle them with jellies, reductions, and glazes!
There, I said it!


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October 15, 2009 at 9:36 pm
chefdarin
Kudos! Thank you Jeff for saying what should have been said a long time ago! What happened to just having really great food? This summer I read “The Reach of a Chef” by Michael Ruhlman. In it he speaks of Grant Achatz and his creation of edible paper that tastes like pizza…again, WTF??? Why would you want to eat a piece of paper if you craved something that tastes like pizza? Give me the real thing!
I’m all for interesting new flavor combinations and new and unique cooking methods but so much of the molecular gastronomy is “out there” simply for the sake of being “out there”.
Darin Sehnert
“Beyond the Recipe – Cooking Between the Lines”
http://www.chefdarin.com